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Melbourne is a city that loves its secret treasures. True to form, Vertue Coffee Roasters is hidden down a cobblestone alley behind a petrol station dragging its tired feet down Carlton’s fashionable drag. It’s tall and narrow, but not claustrophobic: light pours in from the skylight above. They like their fancy plating there, like every third cafe in Melbourne. Unlike the others, they have the quality food to back it up. Vertue’s thing seems to be grey ice cream (lime with charcoal, or black sesame); it feels sophisticated and fresh without trying too hard, as does the breezy-light avo-pea smash.